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Hi all - Welcome back for the second time this month!

I apologize for the inconvenience of the site being offline. The site was down for technical reasons, but it didn't help that I was of offline for two weeks (camping and travel). Once I got back, it took a while to get things sorted out. That's resolved, and the site is now back up. Huzzah!

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Author Topic: Turbo propane build  (Read 47194 times)
Mr Stubs
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« on: April 19, 2009, 12:30:53 AM »

I am going to start a build thread of my conversion of a 22re to a 22rtp.

This seems to be a thing that is hard to find info about and I figured that I would share.


I started with a T-3 made for a Volvo and a propane kit from  http://www.gotpropane.com/p4.html






Had a adapter made and didnt like the transition from the stock turbo manifold to the weird Volvo inlet so I match ported them to the best of my tooling and patience.









I had all of the holes welded shut in the plume and intake rail. I decided not to mess with the pressed in metal tubes so they will get a rubber plug.








Had to change the plume badge as it now is "Propane Fuel Injection"     Well sort of.......




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The my total "Blueberry Krunch" build..... http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=731541
Mr Stubs
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« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2009, 03:19:37 AM »

I found in my file of parts a steel  turbo water line. After I did a bit of little massaging I think that it will work fine.






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The my total "Blueberry Krunch" build..... http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=731541
Mr Stubs
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« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2009, 03:09:39 AM »

I have had bad luck trying to find a gasket for this turbo..... so I made my own. What a time consuming PITA.









Welded in a oil return bung. I would have liked to put it up farther in the block boss but that would require a tap that I dont have (pipe thread $13 or AN -10 $50) and a bad angle for the return hose.











Oil inlet is REAL tight











Made a bracket to brace the turbo. I dont think that the stock manifold likes that much weight hanging off of it.









« Last Edit: April 26, 2009, 05:30:01 AM by Mr Stubs » Logged

The my total "Blueberry Krunch" build..... http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=731541
bud
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« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2009, 03:33:08 AM »

LOOKS GOOD KEEP US POSTED.LET ME KNOW WHAT HOW IT RUNS GOT PROPANE ON ZUKI ITS AWSOME!!!!
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dcg9381
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« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2009, 02:51:24 PM »

I'm not sure that paper gasket will work.  We're talking 1500 degrees.  The gasket for my T3 is metal.
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mosk
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« Reply #5 on: April 29, 2009, 08:02:32 PM »

I'm not sure that paper gasket will work.  We're talking 1500 degrees.  The gasket for my T3 is metal.

x2 -- a regular paper gasket won't last long at all, though it will make a fine template for the final gasket.

You can use really thin stainless steel and have a fabrication shop roll a thin bead around the center hole. I suppose you could also use copper.

Otherwise, very interested in seeing how this turns out. Nice boxing on the turbo bracket.

-Jeff
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Ugly, but probably worth reading: Jeff's 22R-TE Page
Just sayin': If Ronmar and I both post on the same topic, listen to Ronmar! His answers are typically better and more accurate than mine. Cheesy
bud
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« Reply #6 on: April 30, 2009, 12:45:21 AM »

look up remflex gaskets thay will custom fab
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Mr Stubs
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« Reply #7 on: April 30, 2009, 12:56:05 AM »

After talking with another turbo guy (his Supra is, like , wow! methanol injected?) he said the same about the paper gasket. He suggested using the copper gasket goo if both surfaces were machined flat (they are) I just have four areas that are about a 1/4 from a non machined surface. So I dont know if it will work good or not.
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bud
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« Reply #8 on: April 30, 2009, 01:00:14 AM »

i dont know if they as good as copper but i doubt it. but they have a 100% WARRENTY
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Mr Stubs
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« Reply #9 on: April 30, 2009, 01:09:48 AM »

look up remflex gaskets thay will custom fab
I have a set on my wheeler that I bought from a store. Didnt know that they did custom stuff as well.. They have held up so far. I guess that I will give them a call.
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bud
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« Reply #10 on: April 30, 2009, 01:16:52 AM »

try it at this point what do yoy have to lose.also irealy look forward to see what you end up whith at the end of this build!!
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Deric
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« Reply #11 on: April 30, 2009, 02:42:23 AM »

I cant wait to see how this runs!  Cool
Grin Remflex for sure
« Last Edit: April 30, 2009, 02:46:16 AM by Deric » Logged

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Mr Stubs
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« Reply #12 on: May 03, 2009, 06:34:18 AM »

Picked up a few parts today and roughed in the water plumbing and the  exhaust.


The parts I picked up. Wasn't able to figure out if it was NPT or BSTP so I went with brass NPT. Worse case I bugger up the fittings not the housing for the turbo.






 I know that the turbo gets very hot but I was talked out of braided line due to the bend restrictions and cost. I opted to just run steel pipe out from the housing farther to help with heat displacement.

This pick shows the order of how the parts are linked together. Left side is the water inlet. Middle is water outlet. Right side is water outlet to radiator.






I didn't want to tap the radiator so I plumbed into the water line right after the thermostat. This also will help with the water convection that needs to occur to cool the turbo after the motor is shut down.





Back side of motor





Close up of the inside water outlet.





I may trim the steel pipe a bit and move the hose a bit for the water inlet after the exhaust is done. I want to try to keep the line long to help with the cool water convection.

The Chevey 2 3/4 tri flange was a SOB to find as they are not made anymore. I was lucky and after two part stores and three muffler shops I finally found a shop to help me. Each one of the holes needed a bit of file work but in the end a chunk of 2 1/4 pipe was successfully flared and mated to the turbo. I now need to make a custom bend or two and ramp it up to a 2 1/2 pipe.


« Last Edit: May 03, 2009, 06:42:00 AM by Mr Stubs » Logged

The my total "Blueberry Krunch" build..... http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=731541
dcg9381
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« Reply #13 on: May 04, 2009, 06:02:14 AM »

After talking with another turbo guy (his Supra is, like , wow! methanol injected?) he said the same about the paper gasket. He suggested using the copper gasket goo if both surfaces were machined flat (they are) I just have four areas that are about a 1/4 from a non machined surface. So I dont know if it will work good or not.

Copper gasket goo turns into powder.. Trust me.
Reflex will work.

Suggestion - on your water hoses, it's good that you appear to be using silicone.  I'd double wrap them where they are near *any* exahust pipe.

The down pipe - go ahead and do a mandrel 90degree bend now.  I think you'll be hitting the firewall as-is.. Much easier to do it with the engine out.  Just dump it straight down at 90 degrees, don't weld to anything (yet) - you'll set the rotation later.
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Mr Stubs
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« Reply #14 on: May 04, 2009, 12:44:21 PM »


Reflex will work.



The down pipe - go ahead and do a mandrel 90degree bend now.  I think you'll be hitting the firewall as-is.. Much easier to do it with the engine out.  Just dump it straight down at 90 degrees, don't weld to anything (yet) - you'll set the rotation later.

Good to know on the Remflex, sent off my template gasket on thurs.

The down pipe bend is too tight for a standard bender. I am in the middle of fabbing up a bend now.

Seems as everyone goes 2.5" on the pipe dia. I have 2.25 out the turbo. I will have to open it up and I think that I will do it between the two bends.
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The my total "Blueberry Krunch" build..... http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=731541
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