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Hi all - Welcome back for the second time this month!

I apologize for the inconvenience of the site being offline. The site was down for technical reasons, but it didn't help that I was of offline for two weeks (camping and travel). Once I got back, it took a while to get things sorted out. That's resolved, and the site is now back up. Huzzah!

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Author Topic: Testing electrical engine components  (Read 347 times)
Two cylinders
Posts: 191

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« on: October 21, 2018, 08:49:51 PM »

When someone tells you "It's got a new engine, everything is new". Well, that usually means a long block and not all the sensors, switches, fuel system and all those "little other bits" that could cost a buttload of cash to buy new above what you just forked out for that nice clean block, head and valve cover. So just because the mechanical stuff is fresh it doesn't mean something that was swapped onto the new from the old is going to function like new and continue an issue you had from before.
That being my situation I am wanting to test all the old components. First I'd like the grab the Ohmmeter and see if everything is within specs. A fairly daunting task when you think about it, digging through all that spaghetti of wires, hoses, intake system and so on and then if you can even get the connectors off or the piece out when you can barely touch it with a long screwdriver doesn't make you want to rush right out and dig in with a big smile.  Plus some are tested when cold and then hot forcing some people (especially on YouTube) to build some wild mouse trap type of contraption to get the conditions for a reliable test. 
So I am figuring that if most electrical testing usually involves jumping the correct component connectors and measuring the readings why can't this be done at the wiring harness connectors? Has anyone ever measured injector resistance by pulling the connector off the ECU and getting a reading from there or somewhere similar? I could be missing something but I figure the wires coming off the components go somewhere and once you pull the piece out you need to put wires back on it to test it so why pull it out in the first place. Secondly, if this is possible then you should be able to test all 4 injectors from the same connector instead of trying to get access to every one of them individually. You could also pull the connector apart, do a cold test, plug it back in, warm it up and do it at temp. So what would require probably a full day to do it could be reduced to a fraction of that time. I've searched the repair manuals and all they ones I've seen show the procedure for testing different components when they appear to be removed. I'm thinking it might also be possible to get another male and female connector setup with all the correct wiring off an old harness and making a setup to plug between the existing to be able to test stuff while the vehicle is running without compromising the permanent system.

So, am I insane, crazy or just plain stupid or has someone done anything like this already? There has to be someone or maybe everyone but me that has thought of this. 
Good or bad, please let me know. Sometimes the best solutions don't come from being motivated but from being lazy.
Two cylinders
Posts: 456

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« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2018, 04:49:04 PM »

A couple of years ago I tested all of the values possible at the ECU as per the FWM. Took me  a little over an hour.


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