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Author Topic: Fouled Spark Plug  (Read 652 times)
ReelDeal
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« Reply #15 on: November 18, 2018, 02:47:00 AM »

Yikes! I didn't see that one coming! What are the options? New block? bore all od cylinders? Sleeve?
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psychohamster
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« Reply #16 on: November 18, 2018, 05:27:47 AM »

Right now it all comes down to what the supplier is willing to do. I'm fearful they will claim it is not under any warranty and I'll be shit out of luck. My son and I have done business with them in the past by buying parts and they even rebuilt a transmission for us too. Hopefully they can do something as this is an issue that is way out of anything imaginable, at least to me and others including mechanics. Who can afford to replace an engine every 5,000 miles? Right now it is burning a quart of oil every tank of gas and fouling plugs every 100 miles but it doesn't noticeably smoke except after a long deceleration or if you jump on it at cruising speed. I was perplexed that the problem seamed to be it was only fouling #1 plug and I had a noticeable amount of blow by coming from the front valve cover breather hose into the intake hose right after the AFM. I contacted a tech at the supplier a few months ago about this problem and he said it was either the rings or a valve issue and never mentioned this was a possibility. I have just found out that when the engine was first shipped it was seized and had to be sent back so I'm wondering if it was returned and reshipped with it being predisposed to its current condition whether apparent or not. I have always had an issue with high oil consumption but I just attributed that to a long break in until I had a total #1 plug failure due to oil fouling (the electrode was caked solid). I really can't afford to repair this again and I don't have a place to part it so I might have to scrap the truck or sell it for virtually nothing.
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ReelDeal
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« Reply #17 on: November 18, 2018, 05:28:23 PM »

Oh man....I am hoping for a fair solution
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psychohamster
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« Reply #18 on: November 30, 2018, 03:50:50 AM »

OK, the latest update as of 11/29. I talked to the mechanic that originally put in the engine and he said he has talked to the supplier/builder. First issue is we are about a year past the one year warranty. Second, they are questioning the turbo, I guess they might suspect a pressure issue. Third, when the mechanic scoped the engine and found the defect in the cylinder wall he also noticed the engine was built with flat top pistons and not the dished pistons used in the RTE. So at this point I'm waiting for everyone to discuss what course of action is going to happen. Should the one year warranty prevail over the incorrect parts being used? I'll post when I know more.
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ReelDeal
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« Reply #19 on: December 07, 2018, 05:37:46 PM »

Any updates?
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psychohamster
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« Reply #20 on: December 08, 2018, 02:37:13 AM »

Not yet, I plan to contact the mechanic sometime next week. He did the work so I figured he would be the best one to deal with it. I'll post with any updates.
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psychohamster
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« Reply #21 on: December 15, 2018, 12:41:33 PM »

Nothing new as of today. Everything is still being discussed.
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ReelDeal
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« Reply #22 on: December 16, 2018, 05:30:34 PM »

Hope you get good news by Christmas!
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psychohamster
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« Reply #23 on: January 13, 2019, 03:55:27 AM »

The Builder/Supplier hasn't answered the mechanics Email inquiries about what actions are possible so next week I plan to call them and if needed I will drive the 2+ hours to the location and find out first hand what my options are. The biggest pain for me is that now I am burning a quart of oil every 100 miles and changing #1 plug every 300 - 500, it's progressively getting worse. It's a real bitch to think that with an engine that only has around 5,000 miles you shouldn't have to wonder if everytime you turn the key is that engine could seize on any revolution. I'm really fed up with every time I need to go more then a few miles from home will I get stranded.
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psychohamster
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« Reply #24 on: January 14, 2019, 09:07:14 PM »

I contacted Yoda1 Performance today and talked to a technician. He said the cylinder wall damage is extremely unusual. He said it looked more like a burn rather then a hole and it was probably caused by some foreign matter introduced into the engine. Regardless the engine needs to be removed, shipped and disassembled (this will be the second time for this engine to be shipped back). As far as I understand it, at that time a plan of action can only be determined. As I understand it I will be liable for all costs other then possibly parts.
I also mentioned that I was told by the mechanic that the engine was scoped by found it had flat top 22re pistons instead of the dished 22rte slugs. I'm not even sure it has a turbo head on it. I am taking the truck to the mechanic and having it scoped so it can be inspected further, photographed all info forwarded to the builder so they can make a determination of what (if anything) they will do.
It sure is a bitch when your only vehicle goes down.
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ReelDeal
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« Reply #25 on: January 15, 2019, 06:34:36 AM »

Oh man, that really sucks. I hope it gets resolved. If it had the 22re pistons, I would think your compression would be north of 175psi. The non-turbo head is actually a plusIMO.

Good luck.
T
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