22RTE-Trucks
June 17, 2019, 11:11:54 AM *
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Hi all - Welcome back for the second time this month!

I apologize for the inconvenience of the site being offline. The site was down for technical reasons, but it didn't help that I was of offline for two weeks (camping and travel). Once I got back, it took a while to get things sorted out. That's resolved, and the site is now back up. Huzzah!

Please take a minute and read the Site News thread I've posted in the General section, and feel free to comment. Thanks!

mosk
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Author Topic: Fouled Spark Plug  (Read 1454 times)
ReelDeal
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« Reply #15 on: November 18, 2018, 02:47:00 AM »

Yikes! I didn't see that one coming! What are the options? New block? bore all od cylinders? Sleeve?
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psychohamster
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« Reply #16 on: November 18, 2018, 05:27:47 AM »

Right now it all comes down to what the supplier is willing to do. I'm fearful they will claim it is not under any warranty and I'll be shit out of luck. My son and I have done business with them in the past by buying parts and they even rebuilt a transmission for us too. Hopefully they can do something as this is an issue that is way out of anything imaginable, at least to me and others including mechanics. Who can afford to replace an engine every 5,000 miles? Right now it is burning a quart of oil every tank of gas and fouling plugs every 100 miles but it doesn't noticeably smoke except after a long deceleration or if you jump on it at cruising speed. I was perplexed that the problem seamed to be it was only fouling #1 plug and I had a noticeable amount of blow by coming from the front valve cover breather hose into the intake hose right after the AFM. I contacted a tech at the supplier a few months ago about this problem and he said it was either the rings or a valve issue and never mentioned this was a possibility. I have just found out that when the engine was first shipped it was seized and had to be sent back so I'm wondering if it was returned and reshipped with it being predisposed to its current condition whether apparent or not. I have always had an issue with high oil consumption but I just attributed that to a long break in until I had a total #1 plug failure due to oil fouling (the electrode was caked solid). I really can't afford to repair this again and I don't have a place to part it so I might have to scrap the truck or sell it for virtually nothing.
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ReelDeal
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« Reply #17 on: November 18, 2018, 05:28:23 PM »

Oh man....I am hoping for a fair solution
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psychohamster
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« Reply #18 on: November 30, 2018, 03:50:50 AM »

OK, the latest update as of 11/29. I talked to the mechanic that originally put in the engine and he said he has talked to the supplier/builder. First issue is we are about a year past the one year warranty. Second, they are questioning the turbo, I guess they might suspect a pressure issue. Third, when the mechanic scoped the engine and found the defect in the cylinder wall he also noticed the engine was built with flat top pistons and not the dished pistons used in the RTE. So at this point I'm waiting for everyone to discuss what course of action is going to happen. Should the one year warranty prevail over the incorrect parts being used? I'll post when I know more.
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ReelDeal
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« Reply #19 on: December 07, 2018, 05:37:46 PM »

Any updates?
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psychohamster
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« Reply #20 on: December 08, 2018, 02:37:13 AM »

Not yet, I plan to contact the mechanic sometime next week. He did the work so I figured he would be the best one to deal with it. I'll post with any updates.
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psychohamster
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« Reply #21 on: December 15, 2018, 12:41:33 PM »

Nothing new as of today. Everything is still being discussed.
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ReelDeal
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« Reply #22 on: December 16, 2018, 05:30:34 PM »

Hope you get good news by Christmas!
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psychohamster
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« Reply #23 on: January 13, 2019, 03:55:27 AM »

The Builder/Supplier hasn't answered the mechanics Email inquiries about what actions are possible so next week I plan to call them and if needed I will drive the 2+ hours to the location and find out first hand what my options are. The biggest pain for me is that now I am burning a quart of oil every 100 miles and changing #1 plug every 300 - 500, it's progressively getting worse. It's a real bitch to think that with an engine that only has around 5,000 miles you shouldn't have to wonder if everytime you turn the key is that engine could seize on any revolution. I'm really fed up with every time I need to go more then a few miles from home will I get stranded.
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psychohamster
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« Reply #24 on: January 14, 2019, 09:07:14 PM »

I contacted Yoda1 Performance today and talked to a technician. He said the cylinder wall damage is extremely unusual. He said it looked more like a burn rather then a hole and it was probably caused by some foreign matter introduced into the engine. Regardless the engine needs to be removed, shipped and disassembled (this will be the second time for this engine to be shipped back). As far as I understand it, at that time a plan of action can only be determined. As I understand it I will be liable for all costs other then possibly parts.
I also mentioned that I was told by the mechanic that the engine was scoped by found it had flat top 22re pistons instead of the dished 22rte slugs. I'm not even sure it has a turbo head on it. I am taking the truck to the mechanic and having it scoped so it can be inspected further, photographed all info forwarded to the builder so they can make a determination of what (if anything) they will do.
It sure is a bitch when your only vehicle goes down.
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ReelDeal
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« Reply #25 on: January 15, 2019, 06:34:36 AM »

Oh man, that really sucks. I hope it gets resolved. If it had the 22re pistons, I would think your compression would be north of 175psi. The non-turbo head is actually a plusIMO.

Good luck.
T
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psychohamster
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« Reply #26 on: May 12, 2019, 04:14:41 AM »

Just a final update, sorry it's been so long but life happens sometimes.

I haven't done anything beyond constantly change plugs, add oil and clean out the intake system of blowby oil. It's a bitch to burn so much oil(even on small trips of 50 miles or so) because of a defective block. I replaced the o2 sensor about 500 miles ago but it has long been fried by the cylinder blowby oil and my Check Engine Light comes on constantly because of it. I'm just driving it around town. Hopefully it won't lean out to much and seize, although it might anyway from the defective cylinder wall damage. BTW, it had the turbo pistons in it.

The last time I talked to the tech at Yoda1 Performance I knew I was shit out of luck with any issue. I had found out from my sons mechanic who originally ordered this engine that it was delivered seized and had to be shipped back to Yoda1. When I asked the tech about that issue he stated that they had sent out 10 seized engines with the problem being the companies "Connecting Rod Torque Machine" was malfunctioning. WTF is a "Connecting Rod Torque Machine"? I knew right then I was being played and treated like a fool. It is not possible to over tighten a connecting rod end to the point of making its diameter smaller. All that will do is snap the bolt not squish the rod end and clamp it down on the crank. I believe the seizure was due to the cylinder wall failed upon assembly and when it was sent back it was forced past the cylinder wall defect and resulted in the damage. It is the only scenario that makes any sense. I was informed my only course of action was to ship the vehicle to them so they could run it, remove it, disassemble it and determine the problem. I would be liable for all shipping, labor and storage costs, then, upon their determination, I might receive replacement parts at a discount they would determine at their discretion. So I figured with that scenario I'd have a vehicle at some distant location, torn apart in pieces and then informed how many more thousands I'd have to fork out to replace the block, assemble and install it. Sorry, but F You.
I talked to my son about what he thinks and he said just drive it till it blows and we'll swap in a 7MGTE or a pumped up Beams 3SGE.

My advice is if you purchase an engine from them you should scope it thoroughly, pull the pan and valve cover, and check all torques especially with the bottom end since there might be an issue with specs due to the torque machine malfunctioning.
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ReelDeal
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« Reply #27 on: May 22, 2019, 04:51:21 AM »

Oh man, that really sucks. I have been thinking about a 7MGTE swap for a couple of years now myself. My 22RTE runs very well but an extra 100-200 HP is hard to pass up. Good luck with whatever you decide.

T
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