22RTE-Trucks
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Author Topic: Alternator, Ground and Wiring upgrade for moar powah  (Read 1614 times)
CMG
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« on: December 21, 2016, 09:34:59 PM »

My main question is can anybody recommend a specific upgrade alternator with more amps that is plug an play?  I have always monitored my voltage and even with a new battery and rebuilt alternator it sometimes has a hard time keeping up the volts.  My plan is to get a higher amp alternator, clean and replace all existing grounds, and add a few earthing grounds.  Is there anything else I can do to improve the electrical system all around for the engine, power accessories and added accessories?
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ReelDeal
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« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2016, 12:59:50 AM »

http://www.hoalternators.com/online-catalog.aspx

There is a rebuilder in the bay area as well. I will see if I can find that info as well.
T
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Ronmar
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« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2016, 03:30:27 AM »

What voltage are you getting now and where are you measuring that voltage?

1. Measure voltage at battery
2. Measure voltage at the battery with everything turned on.
3. Measure voltage at B+ terminal at alternator(stud/nut)
4. Measure voltage at B+ terminal with everything turned on.

The B+ wiring from alternator back to battery and main wiring panel is a little convoluted with a few connectors.  These vehicles are getting old and weakened connections could be causing issues between alternator and battery...
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Ron

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ReelDeal
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« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2016, 04:47:33 AM »

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_460/Toyota-Pickup.htm

Boyle Future Technology  530-888-6290

T

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CMG
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« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2017, 08:04:25 PM »

I currently measure volts straight from battery.  It can sometimes get as high as 14 but around 13.5 is when it has good power, it gets under 12 when it can't hang.  Voltage is sometimes inconsistent independent of accessories.  Is there an external voltage regulator or internal one for these trucks?  I know that long old wires aren't good for conduction but I think getting a better alt will make an improvement.  I can find various options but it's hit or miss so I was wondering if there was a good upgrade one that is proven.
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CMG
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« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2017, 03:16:51 AM »

So I have been paying more attention to the voltmeter lately and caught it doing something.  Keep in mind this issue only occurs after the truck is being restarted when warm.  The truck was warm and when I started it and took off it was barely running and making helicopter sounds and backfiring.  I was watching the voltmeter as the truck was doing this under load and it was at 11V, then instantly it jumped to 13.5V and it ran fine and everything was back to normal.  This does not sound like specifically an alternator issue but more of a voltage regulator issue.  Is the voltage regulator in the alt or somewhere in the engine bay and is there a way to check it?
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Litneon
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« Reply #6 on: January 27, 2017, 09:39:21 AM »

Not sure if it's universally true, but the later models (mine) have the regulator in the alternator next to the rectifier diodes.
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CMG
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« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2017, 07:04:06 PM »

The voltage regulator is the only thing I can think of that would cause my intermittent loss of volts.  Today while in the middle of driving, the volts dropped down from around 13 to 11 and the truck was barely moving and just sputtering and backfiring.  I pulled off to check it out and all connections were good and tight.  Turned it off then turned it back on, and it was still around 11 volts.  revved it for a few seconds and then the power cam back and I was over 13 again and it ran fine.  Any other ideas? 
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ReelDeal
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« Reply #8 on: February 22, 2017, 06:51:16 AM »

CMG, I just installed a 120amp alternator from an Ebay seller in Whittier Ca.  Ace Alternators. Good service and price was under $120 shipped. Says it will put out 70 amps at idle. He can also provide a 90 amp as well. I also upgraded the charging wire to #4 and the grounds to 1/0 wire. just finished today and haven't checked it yet.

T
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Litneon
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« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2017, 10:54:49 AM »

How are you getting those numbers?  Where are you measuring the voltage from?  I too chased that issue around for a couple of years.  I finally fixed it.

I installed a new Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump and at the same time ran a dedicated circuit for the pump.  Running the dedicated circuit increased my detected voltage (tapped into the factory EFI circuit) by 2 to 4 volts depending on how I'm driving.  I used the factory fuel pump circuit to energize the new relay.
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CMG
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« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2017, 07:26:28 PM »

I am measuring directly off the battery.  The numbers correspond with how the truck runs.  Lately the volts will drop while I am driving and I have to pull over for a minute until it goes back up.  It's almost like there's a switch, it will be around 13 no problem then all of a sudden drop to 11, and then a minute later back to 13.  I've never had an alt come and go, when they die they die.  If there is no external voltage regulator then a loose connection could cause the symptoms. 
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bronz truck
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« Reply #11 on: November 22, 2017, 03:03:34 AM »

So what was it CMG?  Bad alternator? Or a bad connection to it?
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1987 Extra Cab, 4x4,  SR-5, 22RTE; ~10K miles on second rebuild, ARP studs, LCE Head - DOA parts, 30-over and ~8.0:1 CR - custom pistons. TEC Turbo. 9-10 PSI. 2.5in Exhaust. A Duel purpose Vehicle - My main HAM Vehicle - 14 Antenna's...
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