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Author Topic: Stock 22rte runs bad  (Read 21982 times)
psychohamster
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« on: August 14, 2015, 03:30:10 AM »

1st post newbie here, but I've had a my 22rte for 15+ years.

OK, I've got a 1986 RN 56, 5 speed 2wd. It is bone stock w/ 155,000 original miles. I replaced the turbo with a rebuilt stock ct20, reworked the head and new exhaust at 110,000 miles. I've done zero upgrades but lately it's not running right or even good, ok it runs like crap and I need some idea where to start trouble shooting it. The problems are as listed below:

-It is a very hard start 9-10 seconds of cranking most of the time-stumbles until I give it 1/8" of throttle then smooths out at 800 RPM
-once it is warm it is a sluggish pig. No power - backfires when pushed 
- when it is still warming up - it pulls decent -
- sometimes the brakes go to the floor - not often (vacuum issue?)
- turbo light comes on at 1500 - 2000 rpm always
- my son (he's probably around here somewhere - got the same truck) he says I have an exhaust leak - I can't tell, to many late cold nights of riding my Harley and lost most of my hearing

I need some ideas. I don't want to chase down every damn component. Honestly, all I've done lately is change the plugs. Please give me some logical troubleshooting advice - Thanks
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Ronmar
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« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2015, 04:41:17 AM »

Hard starting, probably cold start injector or timer.

Well the turbo light is driven by the ECU as it calculates engine load, based on RPM, Throttle and airflow from the AFM.  Got a vacume/boost gauge? If so hook it up and watch it as you drive.  The turbo light on mine usually comes on right about the time the manifold pressure shifts from vacume to boost. Sluggish and backfiring when warm could go along with a malfunctioning AFM.

Has it stored any codes?
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Ron

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ReelDeal
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« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2015, 05:17:28 PM »

Ronmar is the absolute master at this kind of stuff and always take his advice. Sounds to me like you have multiple issues going on, maybe even a bad cat as well as AFM and/or TPS. A bad or misadjusted TPS can reek havoc anywhere in the RPM band. Start checking one thing at a time. good luck.

T
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Ronmar
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« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2015, 08:11:45 PM »

Clogged cat, good one.  How long has this project set around?  I had mice make a nest in an exhaust pipe once on a project that set around on the garage floor for a few months...  IT blew grass seed out the tailpipe for a few minutes after I first got it running again:)
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Ron

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ReelDeal
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« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2015, 09:10:45 PM »

I had a cat fail internally from one start to the next. It would barely run to get it home.

cwd
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psychohamster
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« Reply #5 on: August 18, 2015, 02:15:01 AM »

Thanks for the replies.

I drive my truck almost daily, but just for a few miles around town.

I have no code issues but check engine light stays on when I first start it up until I tap the throttle and it smooths out.

I was thinking possible faulty cat or maybe vacuum problem around the brake booster hence the sometimes pedal to the floor issue.

I replaced the cold start injector and it didn't do squat. It is very hard starting when cold (I'm near San Francisco so it doesn't really get cold) and it is mildly hard starting when warm.
I haven't touched the AFM in forever, is there a recommended method to clean one?


I'll try to address what's been said here so far.

Thanks for a logical place to start.
« Last Edit: August 18, 2015, 02:18:56 AM by psychohamster » Logged
ReelDeal
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« Reply #6 on: August 18, 2015, 06:33:56 AM »

No vacuum to the booster would make for a harder pedal, not softer. The likely suspect is an internal issue in your master cylinder.

T
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psychohamster
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« Reply #7 on: August 18, 2015, 11:52:04 PM »

ReelDeal
That does make sense, yet I believe I read something recently that suggested an issue with vacuum may arise from the booster.
Thanks for the reply
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psychohamster
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« Reply #8 on: August 21, 2015, 02:31:42 AM »

I haven't done anything as of now, but I am leaning toward a new Cat. I just really dread doing a parts chase with no results. I'll keep my fingers crossed and also post any info so it might hopefully be of use to others in the future.
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Ronmar
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« Reply #9 on: August 21, 2015, 02:45:03 AM »

You say the CEL stays on untill you tap the throttle?  That sounds like something that should have stored a code in the ECU's memory... 

One quirky thing about these ECU's is that they made the TPS idle points not closed code 11 and the normal ops, all is fine code 1.  It is easy to mistake the two, as code 11 will keep the ECU from dropping into baseline timing mode to set the baseline ignition timing properly.  I chased this problem once for a while.  The throttle position sensor not going into idle position properly could also cause hard starting.
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Ron

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ReelDeal
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« Reply #10 on: August 21, 2015, 05:46:52 AM »

Checking/re-setting the TPS is FREE. Mine has been off before. Even had a bad wire in the harness underneath the rubber boot once.

T
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psychohamster
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« Reply #11 on: August 22, 2015, 05:54:20 AM »

Again, thanks for the input.
I am developing a plan of attack toward diagnoses.
I have lacked doing any real maintenance for a long time and now I need to check everything.
I'm going to check for codes, then intake vacuum leaks, clean out and diagnose the intake components.
I am going to replace the Cat since it is over 10 years old and will need a smog in Feb. next year.
If it has a faulty turbo then I'm going to put an LCE unit on it. My son has the same truck and totally rebuilt all the mechanicals and is running an LCE and is happy with it.
It'll take abit of time to go through everything, but I'll post all the results.
I bought the truck in 1999 with around 85,000 miles and its always been fun to drive so I want to keep it for awhile longer.
Thanks for the help.
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ReelDeal
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« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2015, 04:49:15 AM »

psyco, please keep us posted.

T
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psychohamster
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« Reply #13 on: August 24, 2015, 08:41:20 PM »

OK
Now, like when you get a real bad cut and you immediately cover it up and don't want to look. I have that feeling.
Well I checked my codes today and I'm flashing 10, 11 & 14. When the codes flashed they flashed as one number, example: 10 = 10 constant flashes, 11 = 11 constant flashes & 14 was 14 constant flashes, not 1 then 4.
I'm hoping since I've neglected most maintenance for at least 5 years I can get away with simply cleaning out some of the components. Also my cat is over 10 years old (hopefully the turbo issues). my front seal was bad for a long time and gunked everything bad. Changed it and started cleaning everything, it is filthy all the way back to the tailgate from leaking oil. I used to be really diligent about keeping up on my stuff just some major life changes can throw everything into turmoil. Turning it around now.    
I was going to carb clean everything in the intake and hope it would straighten out some problems.
I think my starting loop code is from having bypassed the starter solenoid.

Also I just changed my master cylinder and have been adjusting the pedal push rod. I adjust it until I get the recommended 1/4" pedal play yet after only a couple of miles my brakes are locked up. I remember last time I changed the master I went through the same scenario. Any advice?

Thanks again for your help, i'm keeping my fingers crossed.
« Last Edit: August 24, 2015, 11:19:34 PM by psychohamster » Logged
psychohamster
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« Reply #14 on: August 26, 2015, 06:54:47 PM »

Update - Wed. 8/26
I just discovered my battery is weak and I'll be replacing it.
Could that be a cause of any of the codes I'm getting?

Thanks
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