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Author Topic: Need more top end  (Read 13125 times)
kauaiboy
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« Reply #15 on: October 11, 2014, 09:25:48 PM »

SDS offers datalogging now that is viewed with the programmer, but I can't tell if it is built into the ECU, the programmer, or if hardware changes were made to both.

Are you using a wideband controller that can communicate with a computer? That would at least allow you to see what the AFR is doing when it noses over.

Is your cam the 1022027? Are you using stock springs?

I don't think your exhaust is a restriction at 15-second power levels.

In the mean time, just shift sooner.  Wink



Yah it does but it isn't that good and yes I'm using that camshaft with the stage 3 head. I think it jus needs more tuning. I'm also using the plx afm and its hooked up to the sds ecu but the readings on the sds is wrong as if it's opposite of the plx wideband. Could it be hook up backwards?  Wen I'm off throttle and the fuelcut kicks in the sds reads 9.0 then blanks. It should be reading on the lean side but it's Goin rich. Anybody else running the sds?
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Litneon
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« Reply #16 on: October 12, 2014, 01:11:11 PM »

What are your AFR's under boost?  If it's hooked up backwards (which would probably be a settings thing) are you really lean under boost?

Which PLX are you running?  Just the wideband AFR module?  Or the controller (gauge) too?
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kauaiboy
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« Reply #17 on: October 12, 2014, 10:13:53 PM »

What are your AFR's under boost?  If it's hooked up backwards (which would probably be a settings thing) are you really lean under boost?

Which PLX are you running?  Just the wideband AFR module?  Or the controller (gauge) too?


Afr on boost is between 11.2-12.5 so wen on boost I think I'm in a good area. The sds programmer box display shows that I'm on the rich side but I jus go off of the plx wideband afr. It came with the kit from lc it has the module.
I seen ur build on toyotaminis nice build man. Where did you buy ur Pistons from?
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kauaiboy
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« Reply #18 on: October 13, 2014, 04:00:05 AM »

what do you guys think about these hyper pistons from lc with there h-beam rods
http://www.lceperformance.com/Street-Turbo-Piston-Set-w-Rings-22RET-85-95-040-p/1014307.htm

i would love to buy the forge set with piston and rods like these
http://www.lceperformance.com/Piston-Rod-Set-22R-RE-H-BeamRods-Forged-Pistons-19-p/1010015.htm

but since i spent a arm and a leg already i might have to deal with those hyper pistons... if anybody used them please let me know how you like them thanks
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Litneon
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« Reply #19 on: October 13, 2014, 06:06:38 AM »

The Hypereutectic pistons aren't bad, but they aren't as strong as the forged pistons. I've heard of plenty of low boost builds running them.  They are stronger than the OE 22re pistons, not sure about the rte though.

I bought most of my parts from LC, including the forged CE pistons. 

The only limitation with the Hypereutectic pistons is that you won't be able to run as much boost.  I'm currently at 19 pounds, and wouldn't go back unless it was absolutely necessary.

I was just wondering if you might be leaner than you think under boost if you think the wideband settings are backwards.  Or does the SDS not use the PLX for EGO correction?
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kauaiboy
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« Reply #20 on: October 13, 2014, 10:49:01 AM »

The Hypereutectic pistons aren't bad, but they aren't as strong as the forged pistons. I've heard of plenty of low boost builds running them.  They are stronger than the OE 22re pistons, not sure about the rte though.

I bought most of my parts from LC, including the forged CE pistons. 

The only limitation with the Hypereutectic pistons is that you won't be able to run as much boost.  I'm currently at 19 pounds, and wouldn't go back unless it was absolutely necessary.

I was just wondering if you might be leaner than you think under boost if you think the wideband settings are backwards.  Or does the SDS not use the PLX for EGO correction?

Nice I'm might jus save the money and end up buying the forged kit. The plx to me is correct but the sds to me I think is reading wrong. I need to call lc and see what's goin on with it.

I'm goin to buy a Detroit truetrac next then after that I'll end up picking up the piston and rods. Lc has the rods on se right now but the Pistons arnt hopfully they have a Black Friday sale but we see. I want to run about 15 to 20 pounds of boost with my build so I guess the hyper Pistons is out. Thanks for the info man. Which can you running in ur truck?
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Litneon
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« Reply #21 on: October 14, 2014, 12:26:08 PM »

It's a Schneider. 

http://schneidercams.com/27060F20R/22R.aspx

They have a good selection.


I need a truetrac.
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dcg9381
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« Reply #22 on: October 17, 2014, 03:26:14 PM »

These just aren't high RPM motors.   I'd talk to LCEngineering about "best case" custom scenarios  - they've had them running in circle track cars and other applications (N/A) where they really run them, but I just think that trying to get at or above 6k is like trying to stuff a square peg in a round hole...

In addition to the cam, you'll likely need head work too... Typically that's where the higher rpm gains are. 

CP makes custom forged pistions.  Check into Arias (sp?) too.  LC and DOA both use CP.

I see that Tim at DOA has a stroker setup - I can't tell if the pistons are forged - but at $1250.. if it came with forged pistions, I'd consider it over trying to get high rpm out of these things:  http://doaracingengines.com/latest-news-and-specials/summer-blowout-special/

And I know you guys don't want to hear this, but the 2RZ and 3RZ "swaps" provide 16 valve modern heads... You can probably get those to turn some RPM and sustain much higher power levels.  They'll bolt in to the truck and they can be used with your existing driveline by adding a relatively cheap bellhousing.
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kauaiboy
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« Reply #23 on: October 17, 2014, 05:43:07 PM »

I kinda did some fine tuning and it's hitting 6k rpm with ease. I had it running kinda fat. As for my head it's a lc stage 3 and they also opened up the chambers to drop the compression down a little.

I'll probly go for the lc forged piston and rod set which runs about $985 and I think the rods are on sale so minus $45

As for the 2rz swap....trust me if I knew about b4 my build I would've done it that way in a heart beat but I'm jus to deep with this build already. Plus there's a guy hear on the island running a tacoma 2rz goin low 10's boosted and NOS. with a Chevy 350 trans and she's a beast.

So I fihure I jus try and make a fast 22re turbo. I'm goin to try and post a video of my 3rd gear pull.
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kauaiboy
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« Reply #24 on: October 17, 2014, 09:16:28 PM »

heres a 3rd gear pull

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nW0XWIig_Xc


i really dont know how to post videos i kept on trying but couldnt figure it out frick
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kauaiboy
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« Reply #25 on: October 23, 2014, 12:21:29 AM »

i have a question for ever can answer it.... when i kill my truck after its been running a while when i go to start it up it leans out and dies.  ive seen something about hot start or something like that. why does it happens and how to fix it?  I kinda figure out something but if theres some other way then ill try it but what i do is before i turn on my truck i turn my mixture knob 15% richer and it helps for idle and then wen i drive off i lean it back to Zero.

but if theres another way let me know thanks
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Dirty Dude
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« Reply #26 on: October 23, 2014, 05:45:23 AM »

Lean hot starts typically have to do with the intake air temperature sensor getting "heat soaked" from sitting. This causes a situation where the intake temperature mixture compensation is technically correct, but not what the engine needs during startup.

I get to play with this myself as I tune the Pinto, but MegaSquirt EFI has multiple after-start enrichment curves to deal with it. I'm not at all familiar with SDS.
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1972 Pinto 2.3T/MS-II v3.0.
2000 Frontier
pressure_cooker
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« Reply #27 on: October 23, 2014, 03:11:52 PM »

How much boost are you running?

You may need more cam, higher duration to move power band to right.

LC use to have a stage 3 turbo cam with more duration and higher lift than your current one that went along with the stage 3 head. Looks like they revised their cam selection and part numbers.

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pressure_cooker
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« Reply #28 on: October 23, 2014, 03:16:44 PM »

"I'll probly go for the lc forged piston and rod set which runs about $985 and I think the rods are on sale so minus $45"

Have you or anyone here ever looked at Icon forged pistons? These might be a cheaper alternative. I am considering this with LC's new rods. Will save about $300.

https://www.uempistons.com/index.php?main_page=product_piston_info&cPath=8_9_14&products_id=2358&zenid=60da9d72e1a904377b9c47a2d0293ff9
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Dirty Dude
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« Reply #29 on: October 23, 2014, 04:00:17 PM »

The rings are sold separately. Although they are only $32, I can't figure out whether or not the pins are separate as well. Could dent the apparent cost savings a bit...

Also, retarding the cam will shift the power curve upward in the RPM band. It won't do it more than a few hundred RPM though.
« Last Edit: October 23, 2014, 04:02:44 PM by Dirty Dude » Logged

1972 Pinto 2.3T/MS-II v3.0.
2000 Frontier
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