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Author Topic: Afm question  (Read 6648 times)
Doved85
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« on: September 25, 2014, 02:16:29 AM »

So I am currently running a stock turbo afm and I'm happy with my current setup but I am planning to put alittle more boost and possible bigger injectors in the near future. A gentlemen on another site told me that an afm from an 82 6cyl supra will plug in and I won't have to mess with the board in the afm to make it work in my 22ret. Can anyone help me out with this? The part number he gave me for the afm is 22250-43110. All input is greatly appreciated! Thanks James
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Litneon
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« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2014, 10:14:46 AM »

That mod is generally used to get a slightly less restrictive intake.  It will not however, compensate for the larger injectors without some additional mods.
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Doved85
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« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2014, 03:52:09 PM »

I am running a small t3t4 and I would like to make my engine breath alittle better and for the time being retain stock management. Thanks for the response. And if I changed to a bigger set of injectors what other mods would I want to do to help my engine breather better?
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Litneon
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« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2014, 09:38:45 PM »

Honestly, you don't have to make it breath much better or install bigger injectors just yet.  Look into turning up the boost a bit first.  Not sure when you'll hit fuel cut, but I think you may be able to hit 10 psi. before that happens.  I think the stock injectors are good for that.  Search this site thoroughly, I know the topic has been covered, you'll just have to figure out what to call the mods.  I run a standalone and skipped modding the factory stuff all together.
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Doved85
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« Reply #4 on: September 25, 2014, 11:35:51 PM »

I was running 16psi for a while and decided that was way to much boost for my current setup, I am not running an intercooler but am in the process of building one that will fit behind my stock grill and a/c condesor. My afr underboost is fine it's actually richer then I would like. Goes down 10:1 around 5-6psi
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Litneon
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« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2014, 11:53:00 PM »

Hmm.  If your AFR's are rich, then larger injectors aren't needed.  I mean, you aren't supposed to run them over 80% duty cycle, but how would you know with a stock ECU?  I'd rock it like it is until I went bigger with everything.

I'm surprised you didn't trigger the infamous fuel cut.
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Doved85
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« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2014, 01:03:41 AM »

Okay I agree with what u said. I hit fuel cut once. At 20lbs I just bought a plx AIT modual and an egt modual once there hooked up ill feel much better about starting to mess with management. But I do feel like I am maxing out my injectors right now as after it's warm and I turn it off and start it back up. My afr goes way lean for 20-30 seconds and runs rough then comes back to normal and idles fine. I am contemplating hooking up a fuel pressure gauge.
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Litneon
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« Reply #7 on: September 26, 2014, 01:50:20 AM »

That hot start lean condition is likely the IAT sensor heat soaking.  As the engine needs more fuel when cold, if it runs fine after a bit, it's not an extra fuel needed situation.  Your intake air temp sensor is located in the AFM.  When the body and the sensor get hot, they have a tendency to read inaccurately until you cool the whole housing back down.  If it reads hotter than the air actually is, then the ECU calculates that you need less fuel than you have air density for, resulting in a lean condition.  Post up some pics of your setup.
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Doved85
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« Reply #8 on: September 26, 2014, 01:59:20 AM »

That makes sense how can I fix that? I was also thinking that maybe the temp sensor the computer reads maybe going bad? I tried to post some pictures but this forum won't let me load them off my phone.
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Ronmar
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« Reply #9 on: September 26, 2014, 03:24:16 AM »

How to fix the lean hotstart?  Remote the air sensor out of the AFM to outside the engine compartment, or put an open element air sensor somewhere else in the air plumbing.  The open element will still heat soak like every other engine part in the engine compartment, but as soon as you startup, fresh airflow past the open sensor element will fairly quickly cool it to the airflow temperature...
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Doved85
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« Reply #10 on: September 26, 2014, 03:41:44 AM »

How would I go about relocating the AIT or is this not a big enough issue to worry about?
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Doved85
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« Reply #11 on: September 26, 2014, 04:34:04 AM »



Figured it out. Lol

http://www.22rte-trucks.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=0&pos=0
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Doved85
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« Reply #12 on: September 26, 2014, 04:37:05 AM »

Here's. Couple more
http://www.22rte-trucks.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=0&pos=1

http://www.22rte-trucks.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=0&pos=2
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Doved85
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« Reply #13 on: October 16, 2014, 09:35:11 PM »

So I just got my plx IAT sensor hooked up and I am wondering if I can somehow remove the stock IAT wiring from my afm and use my plx sensor in its place? Thanks
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dcg9381
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« Reply #14 on: October 17, 2014, 03:20:16 PM »

The resistance / temperature curve for the intake IAT sensor is specific to toyota.  GM curve is pretty standard, but the toyota isn't even close.
To do what you want:
1) The PLX sensor and the IAT sensor have to have the same curve.  I can tell you how to test if you want to figure it out.
2) The PLX reader/gauge and the 22RTE ECU need to be high impedance and not interfere with each other...

Cliff's notes: Don't do it.  Use both.
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