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Author Topic: 1987 4 Runner Turbo Sr5  (Read 15553 times)
TurboDog87
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« on: February 24, 2013, 06:57:04 AM »

New to 22RTE, Great website lot of good tech info! Anyways Bought a 1987 4 Runner Sr5 Turbo with 2.4RTE on Ebay a few months back, the seller said it was running hot so he found a cracked head and replaced it with an rebuilt 22re head. He said it still ran hot. I tuned it  up, corrected numerous vacuum leaks and got to run fairly smooth. It ran occasionally hot, did a chemical combustion leak test that checked out okay even after fully warmed up. Did compression test found one cylinder at  120+ psi the rest within spec range %. played with timing helped a little bit. Pulled top rubber intake hose to throttle and found it full of oil. Ordered an basic re-build kit for the turbo, yanked it off and found the common thin crack near the waste gate, no cracks on the exhaust manifold . I guess the kit is now worthless. The help I'm seeking is where to go next, this seems like i bought a money pit. The runner only has 123+ original miles no rust and decent interior with digital gauge cluster, inclinometer package. I want to restore this to an original condition with minor but tasteful upgrades. Theres a lot of knowledgeable folks here please share some guidance. What to spend in moderation. Thanks
« Last Edit: February 24, 2013, 07:01:57 AM by TurboDog87 » Logged
mosk
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« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2013, 10:22:35 PM »

It would really help to know what your budget is, even if it's just a ballpark. There aren't any great solutions out there if you want to replace your current-but-bad CT20 with a freshly rebuilt CT20, but there are solutions if you are handy and don't mind looking at other turbos. Price-wise, replacing the CT20 with a T3 makes the most sense, as you can get various rebuilt T3s relatively inexpensively. You'll still need to mate the T3 to the stock manifold and the turbo's oil feed, oil drain, and cooling lines, but it's doable. Adapting a CT26 is another option, but that will also require fabrication work; see the FAQ section for more info on the CT26 swap.

Unfortunately, the stock ECU truly sucks, which makes it hard to really get the most bang from this sort of upgrade. You end up trying to get it close to stock to conform to the limitations of the stock EFI, as opposed to really optimizing the fuel and timing to get the most form the new turbo.

If you want something off-the-shelf, I'd suggest calling LC Engineering and talking with them. Their low boost turbo kit runs $2500, and would be a good match since you already have the turbo EFI and turbo bottom end:



http://www.lceperformance.com/Street-Turbo-Kit-Low-Boost-22RE-p/1071012.htm

Despite their text, this kit almost certainly will require a little fabrication to make it work/fit right. But it's several big steps in the right direction.

However, if you also have to pass some sort of smog "visual inspection" standard that requires a stock setup...that's going to be tough to pull off.

-Jeff
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TurboDog87
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« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2013, 03:52:41 AM »

Thanks for input. I really haven't capped a budget but really want to get it going as a good daily driver with reliability. Baby steps I guess. Found a site G-Pop that has a garrett t3 bolt on using existing manifold and hardware.  Also the kit I seen on Bruce's site looks do able. I'm also want to get into the engine deep, I hate to a lot of money in and only to find a cracked block like on Bruce's page. That guy has some serious time on his rig. Questions: are these blocks prone to cracks between cylinders? Are the two kits I mentioned wort buying? Thanks again and looking for more feedback. I really dig this site!!
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TurboDog87
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« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2013, 05:22:10 PM »

Well doing some research and debating toward a short or long RTE block from DOA. Turbo Engineering T3 upgrade, Speedsteed exhaust manifold internal wastgate or external? Any suggestions???
« Last Edit: March 11, 2013, 02:53:49 AM by TurboDog87 » Logged
mosk
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« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2013, 05:22:44 PM »

External is great if you plan on running a more than 10 psi boost, otherwise, I'd stick with internal and keep it simple. The difference at our level of performance isn't going to be much, and you would really want to move the external wastegate dump tube re-integration point downstream a good 12" to get the most from the external wastegate (that way the gases vented via the wastegate don't backup and interfere with the spinning of the turbine wheel).

For example, this is what I did:



You can see how the wastegate dump tube rejoins the main exhaust well downstream of the turbine housing. It's a consideration, but there are much easier hp to be picked up through using a better EFI, bigger exhaust, etc.

Hope that helps,
Jeff
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murfdaddy
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« Reply #5 on: August 21, 2013, 11:20:03 PM »

So I'm in the same boat.  Need to replace the CT20, but can't decide if the T3 or CT26 is the way to go.  I'm not looking for huge gains in power, just ease of swap and availability of parts in the long run.

Was looking at this manifold

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-22RE-22RTE-Stainless-Steel-Turbo-Exhaust-Manifold-Garrett-T3-STAGE-II-/190889527715?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c71e709a3

and was wondering how difficult routing the oil supply and return lines would be, and also, whether the stock oil pump creates enough pressure to run a top mounted turbo?
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murfdaddy
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« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2015, 04:37:59 PM »

Anyone know what tubing the LC kit is using for their oil return?  I see it's that orange tubing but I'm wondering if anyone knows the specs on this?  Also, looks like they're using a 45 degree fitting to return the oil to the block.
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Ronmar
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« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2015, 06:50:42 PM »

That looks like a well built manifold.  I would like to see the runners a bit longer though.  The issue here is you are using a aluminum head, and the goal of any manifold is to efficiently scavenge exhaust gas heat away from the head.  This is an issue on the stock RTE manifold, the last 2 cylinders have a short run into the turbo, not long enough to take in all the exhaust gas before running into the restriction of the turbo so 3 and 4 run hotter. 

That  manifold  also comes out close alongside each end of the flange where the turbo bolts.  I would be curious what a turbo looks like on top of it.  The oil dumps out the bottom of the turbo misdesection so you need enough clearance for the oil line and  it would be better IMO if that line dosn't run right alongside the hot manifold. 

The manifold designs where the runners turn down, then up into the turbo take up a bit more room, but are the best IMO as they allow for longer runs to get the heat away from the head. They also allow you a little more spacing between oil return and manifold...

Like Mosk said unless you plan on passing 10 PSI the external is overkill and just takes up space in an already crowded exhaust side plumbing area on a toyota...
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murfdaddy
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« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2015, 09:34:30 PM »

I'll probably just block off the wastegate opening on that manifold.  I bought it a while back and it's very well constructed and the guy doesn't seem to be offering it anymore on ebay.  Really my only hurdles at this point are choosing a head gasket and the oil plumbing for the turbo.  The T3 I have is a .42/.48 and I really don't plan on running it much past 10psi although the challenge of fabricating a intercooler scares and entices me.



edit:  haha, or just do an engine swap to a 2RZ/3RZ, 1GR-FE or 5VZ-FE

Got bored, messed around with a Harbor Freight sprayer, lacquer paint and repaired the rust and painted the bed the old girl... still need to clear coat it but the cheap gun I have won't put out enough paint to give a glassy appearance.

« Last Edit: March 13, 2015, 09:47:00 PM by murfdaddy » Logged
buickid
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« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2015, 07:15:55 PM »

Slick looking truck with a very unique paintjob!  The Ivan Stewart race truck is quite classic, and this quite evokes that image!
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1986 Toyota SR5 Turbo Pickup 2WD
murfdaddy
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« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2015, 10:03:11 PM »

Thanks!  It was my first attempt at painting a vehicle ever. Also, once I realized the orange was too bronze colored, I switched from yellow to a gold.  One day I'll get rid of the stupid drop bracket lift and either put a long travel kit or SAS the front end.  Anyone know what the upcoming winning lotto numbers will be?
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CMG
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« Reply #11 on: January 27, 2017, 03:32:29 AM »

I bought mine almost 10 years ago and have dumped way too much money into it, and mine does not sound as nice as yours.  Some of my vehicles are for investment, but the 4runner definitely is not, it's to use. I have done a ton of work and it still needs a lot more but I love that thing.  I am mainly a sports car guy and I love how even with big tires and 3" lift it still kind of drives like a car (just with a lot more body roll)Every old vehicle has issues but the 4runner is definitely one of the more reliable ones.  Sounds like you are on the right path, is your roadblock a toasted ct20?  Whether you get a quality rebuilt ct20 or a different turbo (you would need an adapter flange and some modifications), it's gonna be at least $1000, FI is always more expensive than NA.  If you do your own work they have generic ct20 for under $300 that would get you by for the meantime at least. 
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