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Author Topic: CT26 Installation  (Read 45794 times)
BB
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« on: October 28, 2007, 11:51:58 PM »

Background

After I found Jeffís 22R-TE site and the smart/cool stuff he was doing, I had to have that engine. I already owned a Toyota Truck and have always wanted more power.

I bought a turbo truck with a broken CT20 turbo. I read that the CT20 turbo was a flawed and limited so I considered what other turbos were available. Then I found that it was possible to install a CT26 from the Supra 7M-GTE on the 22R-TE with modification. The Supra guys seem to like the CT26. Also, it seemed like a natural fit because it is used on a slightly larger 3.0 liter engine, it bolts up to stock exhaust manifold with a very simple mod and itís a Toyota part.


Disclaimer

This is the way I did it but it is possible to do it differently.


Summary

After doing this I would say itís mechanically not too difficult. There are some custom pieces necessary so you need to be able to fabricate, weld and/or have a good machine shop. The hardest parts are oil drain/supply and the down pipe.

The turbo fits in the engine compartment pretty nicely with the tightest part being the intake hose to the turbo inlet behind the P/S Pump.


New Parts

Turbo:                      CT26 turbo from a 1986.5-1992 Toyota Supra with the 7M-GTE engine

Oil Drain/Supply:       Supra part

Downpipe:                Rectangular steel plate 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick for flange or CT26 aftermarket flange
                                Steel tubing 2.5 inch OD U bend with tight bend radius
                                Oxygen sensor bung
                                Braided Flex Pipe 2.5 inch ID for the connection to the exhaust system

Turbo pipe:               Steel tubing 2.0 inch OD with one end beaded
                                Hose, 45 degree bend with 2.0 inch ID

Gaskets:                  Oil drain/supply line to block-22RTE
                                Oil drain/supply line to turbo-CT26
                                Copper washers at block-22RTE
                                Exhaust gasket for the CT26 to Supra exhaust housing
                                Coolant tubes to turbo-22RTE
                                Exhaust manifold-22RTE

Lower coolant tube:  Cool Flex brand flexible pipe http://www.coolflex.com/cfm/store.cfm?maincat=3600&subcat=1&mode=parts
                                 Straight radiator hose


Modified parts

Exhaust manifold:     Ported open to size of ID of CT20 exhaust manifold gasket, approximately 2-1/8"

CT26:                       Exhaust housing holes at exhaust manifold are changed from holes to slots
                                Clock 3 turbo sections, turbo disassembly required
                                Bend wastegate actuator rod

Oil Drain/Supply:       Supra and 22RTE parts combined

Turbo Tube:              Remove flange that bolts to the CT20, weld in 2.0 inch beaded pipe

Intake:                      Stock Inlet Hose at turbo, 90 degree bend. This is a laminated hose. Separate the 2 pieces and the trim the inner and reinstall.

Coolant hose:           180 degree hose at waterpump is trimmed to 90 degrees. Heater core return port must be retained.


Installation

Remove exhaust manifold and CT20 as an assembly. Separate turbo from exhaust manifold.

Port the exhaust manifold, especially the outlet using the CT20 gasket as a template. The inlet of the CT26 is about the same size as the hole in the gasket.

Disassemble CT26 turbo. Unbolt the wastegate actuator. Unbolt the clamp that holds center section to the exhaust housing. Place gently but securely in a vise. Heat the exhaust housing and hammer off. Remove big snap ring that holds the compressor housing on to the center section. There are some pins between the sections that have to be removed.
 
Grind the mounting holes on the turbo exhaust housing towards the center. This allows it to fit on the 22RTE exhaust manifold.

Loosely bolt the turbo exhaust housing on to the exhaust manifold. Temporarily install on engine.

Hold the center section up to the exhaust housing so that the oil drain/supply port is pointed straight down and mark the 2 sections to put them together later.

The compressor housing outlet is rotated to a 45 degree angle (1:30 as a clock reference) looking from the front of the truck.

Reassemble the turbo now that orientation is determined.

The wastegate actuator from the CT26 works but you need to bend the rod a little differently.

Use the CT20 coolant lines on the CT26. You might want to get the hose from the water pump to the turbo and replace it while you have the turbo out.

This is one of the harder things to explain. The Supra oil drain/supply line and the 22RTE oil drain/supply line are cut and mated. Take the 22RTE part and trim off the flange that goes to the turbo. So the 22RTE drain flange (engine block mating part) and pipe are left. Now take the Supra part and trim off the drain pipe. The Supra flange that goes to the turbo is retained with the oil supply line that comes out of it. Loosely bolt the turbo and exhaust manifold to the engine. Install both trimmed pieces to determine positions. Weld or solder together. Next remove the banjo fittings from both supply lines. Take the 22RTE banjo fitting and solder it on the Supra feed line so it will fit the pressurized oil supply port on the block. The oil supply line must be bent to fit.

The turbo tube from the CT20 to the throttle body is modified by cutting off the flange that bolts onto the CT20. The pipe is 2 pieces so grind off the weld and take that flange and short section of curved pipe out. Weld in a short straight piece of beaded 2.0 inch OD pipe. A new hose with a 45-degree bend in it connects the turbo to the pipe. 45 degree turbo outlet plus 45 degree hose equals pointing up to the intake pipe.

The lower coolant pipe has to be removed because the larger turbo hits it. Replace with a "Cool Flex" pipe which is a bendable pipe and re-route it. The hose that connects to the water pump is trimmed in half. There is a return line from the heater core so retain that portion. Connect the ďCool FlexĒ into the hose. Then route it back around the engine mount and forward to a straight hose into the radiator.

Now for the air cleaner to the turbo use the stock setup but with one modification. From the AFM on top of the air box there is a long hose, a short section of pipe and then a 90-degree hose that goes to the turbo inlet. The CT20 inlet is a smaller OD than the CT26. That 90-degree hose is 2 pieces, a laminated construction. Pull out the inner hose. Soaking in hot water makes it more pliable. Trim the inner hose back because the outer hose fits nicely on the CT26. But you need that inner part for that short section of tube. Glue it back in with some silicone gasket maker.

The down pipe starts with the flange. May be available online but if not take the gasket and use it as a template. The bolt pattern is the important thing. The outside doesnít need to follow the gasket, it can be rectangle with the four mounting holes and one 2.5 inch hole. The 2.5 inch hole is located from the gasket. The hole is centered over the turbine.

Take a 180-degree U bend, 2.5" OD pipe with a tight bend radius and chop it into two 90 degree bends. The turbo should be installed on the engine and ready to go. With the flange on the turbo put one 90 pointing down and then the other goes back. The length of the 90ís has to be trimmed to fit. Watch out for the front sway bar. Mark the relative positions with a marker. Remove and weld it all together. It should end up the two 90ís can be laid flat when welding. Bolt into truck and determine location for O2 sensor bung. Weld in just behind the flange.

The exhaust is connected with a flex pipe to the downpipe to take some stress off of it. From the flex pipe it is a straight piece of tube, a Super Turbo on end and that takes it over the axle and then a straight pipe with a downturn at the end.


Retrospective

A couple things that I might do differently are the oil drain/supply and the downpipe. A braided steel line and aftermarket banjo fitting for the oil supply would be better. Routing oil line further away from the exhaust housing. For the downpipe it would be better to have a single piece of tube with 2 bends in it, itís just stronger but more expensive. I havenít had any problems with my set up.
« Last Edit: November 26, 2007, 02:04:20 AM by BB » Logged
ROKNROLLR
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« Reply #1 on: October 29, 2007, 01:15:11 AM »


Do you have any pictures to go along with the write up, also what did you you do for tuning and fuel enrichment? Also does this still pass emissions?
THX
 
« Last Edit: October 29, 2007, 03:17:36 AM by ROKNROLLR » Logged
swerks
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« Reply #2 on: October 29, 2007, 01:54:50 AM »

Nice write up! Ive heard this mod disscussed many times but never seen a write up. good job Grin
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86 Turbo 4Runner
BB
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« Reply #3 on: October 29, 2007, 02:02:35 AM »

Thanks. I think the write up turned out well.

Is there anything that isn't clear?
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BB
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« Reply #4 on: October 29, 2007, 02:23:19 AM »

THX

There is no emissons testing in Michigan. I don't know much about emissons testing practically but from reading posts on the internet it seems like the question is 'can it look like a factory installation?' The downpipe won't. Everything else, yes. It says TOYOTA on the turbo.

Tuning and lack of time has put the project on the back burner. Maybe some motivation and help from you guys can get it up and running good.

I'm going to post the tuning situation in the EFI forum.

I have pictures. Some are in the photo gallery now.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2007, 03:48:29 AM by BB » Logged
dcg9381
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« Reply #5 on: October 29, 2007, 01:41:58 PM »

Great write up.  The ct26 question is posted all the time.

How does the ct26 behave compared to the ct20?  Any driving differences?
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mosk
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« Reply #6 on: October 29, 2007, 04:09:16 PM »

FINALLY!!

Thanks, BB -- great write up! I will copy or move this to the FAQ section shortly.

Your contribution is MUCH appreciated!

-Jeff
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Ugly, but probably worth reading: Jeff's 22R-TE Page
Just sayin': If Ronmar and I both post on the same topic, listen to Ronmar! His answers are typically better and more accurate than mine. Cheesy
BB
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« Reply #7 on: October 29, 2007, 09:39:13 PM »

Great write up.  The ct26 question is posted all the time.

How does the ct26 behave compared to the ct20?  Any driving differences?

The CT20 was dead when I got the truck. The exhaust housing was badly cracked. So I never got to drive the truck with it. I figured instead of spending money on another CT20 that doesn't have a good rep I would just go ahead and start with an upgrade.
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ROKNROLLR
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« Reply #8 on: October 31, 2007, 05:02:59 AM »

Anybody else running a ct 26 on a consistant basis(meaning daily driver) I like to know how it runs,durability, performance gains-compared to stock,reliability,fuel management,pro and cons of the installed comparted to stock ct-20 or other turbos......etc Also was it a worth while conversion

THX
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dlm
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« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2007, 06:52:08 AM »

Hey guys, I am new here but have done this swap to my 87 turbo 4runner.  Thanks for the right-up.  I have several pics of my complete build and did a few things differently.  I don't want to jack your thread so I guess I should start one.  Anyway it is good to see this info out there, it would have helped alot when I did mine.  I daily drive mine and honestly it performs almost exactly like the CT20.  It spools about the same and seems to make about the same power.  The big advantage to this setup is that it would respond much better to mods like an intercooler and more boost because it can flow a higher volume of air.  It would also be much more reliable.  I will be doing the above mods very soon and will be putting it on a dyno before and after, but I don't want to thread jack so keep an eye out for my build thread.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2007, 07:11:34 AM by dlm » Logged

with love, Dave
ROKNROLLR
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« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2007, 08:12:01 AM »

It's simply information, post it up. It seems your a little ahead of the game as you are actaully using it on a daily basis. List all the mods, along with fuel enrichment, reliabilty and performance pros and cons. If you could list it with step by step pictures and information  that would be nice. It would save alot of unncessary posted questions that needs to be answered.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2007, 08:23:31 AM by ROKNROLLR » Logged
BB
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« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2007, 03:23:25 AM »

Hey guys, I am new here but have done this swap to my 87 turbo 4runner.  Thanks for the right-up.  I have several pics of my complete build and did a few things differently.  I don't want to jack your thread so I guess I should start one.  Anyway it is good to see this info out there, it would have helped alot when I did mine.  I daily drive mine and honestly it performs almost exactly like the CT20.  It spools about the same and seems to make about the same power.  The big advantage to this setup is that it would respond much better to mods like an intercooler and more boost because it can flow a higher volume of air.  It would also be much more reliable.  I will be doing the above mods very soon and will be putting it on a dyno before and after, but I don't want to thread jack so keep an eye out for my build thread.

Cool. I'm interested in seeing your write-up.
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86onswamps
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« Reply #12 on: November 22, 2013, 07:25:30 AM »

alright guys I know this is an old thread but I just put a ct-26 on my truck and I have a fluttery boost gauge. im pretty sure its the wastegate actuator rod. can you describe how you bent it up? my wastegate is working its just dumping my boost on acceleration in lower rpm's. ideas???
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