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Author Topic: megasquirt v2.2 build  (Read 51503 times)
marine1630
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« on: October 09, 2010, 06:36:11 PM »

Ok so I'm new to mega squirt and have an option to get a v2.2 box now the adapter harness build that darin made from diy is for a v3 board what are the differences physically and in signals or capabilities and will that harness work. 
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marine1630
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« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2010, 12:52:49 AM »

Ok so I answered my own questionthe only difference is in the programming and abilities.  So what if you could modify the stock ecu box to hold the mega squirt board anyone done that so it mounts in the same spot but to tune you would have to pull the cover or cut an outlet for the db9 cable oh by the way you can get a db9 cable at best buy for 20 bucks found one today there just thought id share anyways how bout the stock ecu box with ms inside Huh
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marine1630
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« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2010, 01:01:29 AM »

ok this may be a dumb question and it feels like im talking to myself since im getting no feed back from anybody but here it goes so i made my harrness by direction of pnp build i noticed a abreviation on my board that said STA for stater switch now call me crazy but doesnt that have to be wired in to activate the starter solinoid Huh  and are there any other connections any one has had to make to get there motor to run
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dcg9381
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« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2010, 01:55:17 PM »

Ok so I'm new to mega squirt and have an option to get a v2.2 box now the adapter harness build that darin made from diy is for a v3 board what are the differences physically and in signals or capabilities and will that harness work. 

I'd recommend a 3.0 board or newer.  The 2.2 boards require an add-on to drive low impedance injectors, which is just something that is unnecessary.

In fact, I'd recommend the new 3.57 PnP setup - it already comes with a connector and you can build the entire thing without an adapter harness.  I think someone on here has made that work...   

Both the 3.0 and 3.57 setups cost a little more, but you're getting newer hardware and more people will be able to help you with issues..
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dcg9381
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« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2010, 01:56:59 PM »

ok this may be a dumb question and it feels like im talking to myself since im getting no feed back from anybody but here it goes so i made my harrness by direction of pnp build i noticed a abreviation on my board that said STA for stater switch now call me crazy but doesnt that have to be wired in to activate the starter solinoid Huh  and are there any other connections any one has had to make to get there motor to run

I guess you've already got the board?
Are you building megasquirt by yourself or is it pre-assembled?

The starter solenoid is triggered by the truck wiring.. Although MS is probably capable of controlling the starter, it's unnecessary.

Do you have a good wiring diagram for the truck? One will be required.  Can anyone post up a reference to a factor diagram?

If you bought the DIY board, it should come with generic wiring instructions...
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dcg9381
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« Reply #5 on: October 12, 2010, 01:57:57 PM »

Ok so I answered my own questionthe only difference is in the programming and abilities.  So what if you could modify the stock ecu box to hold the mega squirt board anyone done that so it mounts in the same spot but to tune you would have to pull the cover or cut an outlet for the db9 cable oh by the way you can get a db9 cable at best buy for 20 bucks found one today there just thought id share anyways how bout the stock ecu box with ms inside Huh

I remove the old ECU and put the MS box in it's place.  I run a DB9 cable and just leave it plugged in to the unit.
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marine1630
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« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2010, 02:15:46 PM »

I already have the board to be honest and I could just change to high impedence injectors but as far as the adapter I have the ecu part built ready to connect to ms harness do you think there are any differences in plug ins or any thing and yes I did see the 3.57 plug n play but its way out of my price range I can build the 2.2 boarf if need be and I got a factory service manual with all wire diagrams.  Do you know of anybody running 2.2.
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marine1630
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« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2010, 02:29:02 PM »

It is already preassembled as well forgot to add that in.  In your harness build you stated that you need a 1k resistor on d1 and d9 for pull up what do you think the requirements are for the 2.2 board
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dcg9381
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« Reply #8 on: October 12, 2010, 04:02:57 PM »

I already have the board to be honest and I could just change to high impedence injectors but as far as the adapter I have the ecu part built ready to connect to ms harness do you think there are any differences in plug ins or any thing and yes I did see the 3.57 plug n play but its way out of my price range I can build the 2.2 boarf if need be and I got a factory service manual with all wire diagrams.  Do you know of anybody running 2.2.

From the perspective of the ECU, you've already got high impedance injectors.
Look at the factor wiring manual.  In front of the injector banks is a resistor box (it's mounted on the passenger side of the engine compartment, near hood).  You treat the injectors like high impedance.

The 3.0+ boards are better in terms of reliability.. but 2.2 was used for years, so it's really not a problem, just a preference.  I ran it a few years ago with a supercharged 22R... That project was fuel only.


Anyone here running a 2.2 board?
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dcg9381
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« Reply #9 on: October 12, 2010, 04:05:10 PM »

It is already preassembled as well forgot to add that in.  In your harness build you stated that you need a 1k resistor on d1 and d9 for pull up what do you think the requirements are for the 2.2 board

I can't recall if that's on the input or output circuit.  I do recall that it's a voltage divider setup and related to ignition with VAST.  If you got a pre-assembled board from Jerry @ DIY Autotune, can you tell me if you got one that's pre-assembled for VAST (ignition) input/output or if the board is preassembled and you have to finish the ignition configuration?

With this information, I can give you an educated answer.. But honestly, it'll work both ways.
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marine1630
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« Reply #10 on: October 12, 2010, 04:19:15 PM »

I will have to ask the guy I baught it from he says it was assembled by diy but for what configuration I'm not sure.  what do you mean I'm already setup for high impedence are you talking bout the resistors in the engine bay if so then I would not have to do the add on the 2.2 for low impedence right I got a schematic of the 2.2 as well. So ms1 only does fuel ? If so will that impede on the timing issues with a turbo
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marine1630
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« Reply #11 on: October 12, 2010, 04:42:19 PM »

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#hallV22

I got this link from megasquirt im no electronics genius but if my ms1 is not setup for vast i have to install a resistor on two out put it looks like to be honest im dumb to this can anyone take a look and possibly break it down barney style for me.  I have the pcb2.2 setup

by the way here is the list of what im running
t25 turbo
320 low imp injectors
turbo manifold i built
stock internals w/ stock compression (ganna try a theory)
ported head (extensivley)
not sure what cam possibly the stock 22re or the doa the mosk likes
remote oil filter and custom cooling lines
walhbro 255lbh pump
run 9-12 psi
ms1 pcb2.2 stand alone

anybody see any issues with this setup besides the compression ratio

Theory: A subaru WRX runs between 10:1-11:1 comp. with upwards of 12+psi now in theory the higher compression pushes exhaust out faster thus making room for more intake ie fuel and air same with some honda motors now i know a 22re isnt a riceburner motor but it has its strong points 300+k on one build thats impressive so why not keep the stock 9.4:1 plus or minus with some extensive head work to move that air and fuel in and out faster sounds like it would work but im putting it to the test if i blow it ill rebuild it and try somthing else. 

but back to the megasquirt setup.
anyone help with input
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dcg9381
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« Reply #12 on: October 12, 2010, 07:28:13 PM »



Honestly, this is the biggest mistake that I see people make... Getting an MS unit in an unknown condition from someone that says it "will work".  I'd press whoever you bought it from to give you all the documentation on it.  Jerry provides wiring diagrams and should indicate what type of input/output (meaning ignition system) it's setup for.

An alternate suggestion is to open the case.  Take a high resolution picture of both sides of the board and post it here AND/OR on the megasquirt forums.  The input and output circuits can be identified.

I'd say 90% of the units that I've seen independently built are paperweights.  If it's one of Jerry's units, it's good... And you can send it back in to DIYautotune to have them setup the input and output.  There is no point in talking about what resistors to use until you've identified what you've got in your hand.

I believe 2.2 will do MSnSe (Megasquirt and Spark Extra) which will do ignition also.

Resistors:
Stock injectors are low impedance.  They are connected in-line to a resistor box in the factor wiring harness, which makes them (for the sake of megasquirt configuration) high impedance injectors.


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dcg9381
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« Reply #13 on: October 12, 2010, 07:34:56 PM »

t this link from megasquirt im no electronics genius but if my ms1 is not setup for vast i have to install a resistor on two out put it looks like to be honest im dumb to this can anyone take a look and possibly break it down barney style for me.  I have the pcb2.2 setup


Again, you have to figure out what you've got currently.
You're not going to be add just a resistor or two.  Basically the process for anyone building megasquirt is:
Generic assembly (same for all units)
Configuration of input - which includes electronic components, jumper settings.
Configuration of output - which includes electronic components, and jumper settings.

Again, post photos of it on the MS forums.  Or you can go through the assembly manual, find the section on VAST and decide if your unit is assembled correctly for that ignition type. 


Quote from: marine1630
anybody see any issues with this setup besides the compression ratio

I see no mention of ARP studs or a metal head gasket.  Ask mosk how many head gaskets he's gone through.  I've gone through at least 4.
High compression, you won't get much past 7psi on pump gas.  I tell you this from experience.

Quote from: marine1630
Theory: <SNIP>

Like I indicated in email: This is not a modern motor.  It's a long stroke torque motor with a poor head head design.  It won't rev high, even extensively ported, it won't flow like a Honda.  You will simply not see the same output per liter as a modern motor.
Look in the dyno section - some of those results are the *best* cases and many of those dynos are on race fuel.


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marine1630
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« Reply #14 on: October 12, 2010, 07:42:37 PM »

Ok that makes more sence to me about the injectors and I will try and get as much as I can from the guy it looks like it hasent been installed but well see when it arrives I also founs some maps for the vast sys with megasquirt its for a 4age motor w/turbo tho.  

I'm hoping its not a paper weight if it is wired wrong I can get a schematic and have some avionics guys wire it for me correctly

The arp studs are required I figured talking turbo that was already assumed as well as metal head agsket

Now I wonder if a more modern head might fit a 22r series engine ??  Big If !!
If the comp. Is to high ill tear down and build with rte pistons
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