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Author Topic: DLM's CT26 build thread  (Read 37435 times)
dlm
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« on: December 05, 2007, 07:57:50 AM »

Well I am new here but have recently finished a build on my 1987 turbo 4runner and figured I should share it in case anyone finds it useful.  My name is Dave LaMay and I live in La Verne CA.  I am half owner of a shop called Driftmotion.  We focus on mark 3 Supras but are car nuts in general and are willing to play with anything with wheels.

My truck is a black 1987 turbo 4runner SR5 automatic with every option.  I bought it about 2 years ago with 179000 miles.  It was in almost showroom condition.  The previous owner had repainted it a year prior and installed an awesome stereo but  no other mods and I don't think the four wheel drive had even been engaged. 

Upon getting the truck I quickly remedied that problem and installed 4.56 gears, a detroit locker in rear, a detroit truetrac in front, 31 inch all terrains, homemade rockrails, an allpro rear bumper, and removed all the unnessary bits(mud flaps, front valance, etc.)

Anyway,  I will post all my pics and detail everything I did but it may take a little bit of time as I don't get much freetime. Bare with me and feel free to question away as I go along.

Here is my baby just for referance.


At about 185000 miles or so all hell started to break loose.  It started to run rough and overheat.  It showed obvious signs of a blown head gasket.  Then even though there was no oil and water mixing yet in started knocking.  So that prompted the build.

Here is my empty engine bay...


...and most of what had been in it.


Upon disassembly I found a severly cracked turbo exhaust housing,  a cracked exhaust manifold, and two large cracks in the head from the number three combustion chamber to the water jackets.  It had also spun the number four rod bearing.  Other than that everything looked great. Roll Eyes  The building begins.

So, I have to get to bed now but I will try to add more tomarrow. 




« Last Edit: February 14, 2009, 07:47:14 PM by dlm » Logged

with love, Dave
ROKNROLLR
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« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2007, 09:17:39 AM »

Nice clean black runner! Wink..............oh! wait  correction That's TURBO runner Grin
« Last Edit: December 07, 2007, 05:40:45 AM by ROKNROLLR » Logged
BB
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« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2007, 11:17:25 PM »

Looks good. Keep the pictures coming.
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dlm
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« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2007, 06:37:08 AM »

Thanks for the comments guys.  It is nice to know someone is reading.
Ok, part 2.  So I started out getting everything machined.  Everything was checked and was in great shape with the exception of the number four rod and corresponding rod jounal on the crank.  Everything got cleaned good. 

The crank got ground under on the rods only, and all polished.



The block got honed and decked.



Front



Bottom

 

Flat and smooth for the cometic MLS head gasket



I reused the original rods and pistons.




I did however need a new number four rod and a non cracked head.  At this same time I happened to run across a 1987 turbo 4x4 truck with a manual for sale.  I bought it for a few hundred bucks non running.  Upon disassembly I found a cracked turbo housing(surprise), a cracked exhaust manifold(surprised again), and a head cracked between the valve seats of all four cylinders(sur... nevermind).  I kind of suspected all this when I bought it but at least I had a replacment rod and everything needed for a manual trans swap later(hint hint).  Anyway everything got balanced and checked again.

So that is all I have time for tonight.  I'll try for more tomarrow. 
Stay tuned.





« Last Edit: December 07, 2007, 05:04:49 PM by dlm » Logged

with love, Dave
dlm
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« Reply #4 on: December 08, 2007, 04:33:35 PM »

Ok so next everything started to go together.

Here is the bottom all together.



And here is the deck after assembly and with the new ARP studs.



 
« Last Edit: December 08, 2007, 04:38:13 PM by dlm » Logged

with love, Dave
dlm
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« Reply #5 on: December 08, 2007, 04:41:28 PM »

This would be a comparison of the blown factory gasket on top and the cometic MLS on the bottom


So I wasn't able to find a turbo head that was any good and the more I reseached and thought about it I decided to go with a 22re head.  I really felt the compression bump would help with spool and the head would probably be less likely to crack.  Here is the cheap, new casting, prebuilt ebay head I ordered on top and the cracked up rte head on bottom.  You can see the chamber difference between the two.



 
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with love, Dave
dlm
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« Reply #6 on: December 08, 2007, 04:42:29 PM »

I should throw in hear that I totally forgot to mention the first owner had swapped out the cam for a DOA cam at some point.  It was still in great shape so it was placed into the new head and then everything was torqued down nice and tight.


Well I will leave you guys tonight with the completed longblock and then next time we can get into the fun bits.


So remember I don't mind questions or comments.   Cheesy
 
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with love, Dave
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« Reply #7 on: December 08, 2007, 06:29:01 PM »

Nice clean new parts, They're are so nice to work and look at. LQQks good! Wink
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« Reply #8 on: December 08, 2007, 09:49:00 PM »

So remember I don't mind questions or comments.   Cheesy

Why didn't you get new pistons?
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dlm
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« Reply #9 on: December 09, 2007, 01:58:09 AM »

So remember I don't mind questions or comments.   Cheesy

Why didn't you get new pistons?

I didn't need them.  Huh  Honestly, I almost did get new forged pistons but then I asked myself why would I get new pistons.  The originals were in perfect shape and entirely caplable of handling anything that I will be throwing at them so why not use the money for something that would be beneficial.   

Thank you guys for the comments and questions.  Keep them comming.  It's good to know I am not wasting my time.
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with love, Dave
DOARACING
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« Reply #10 on: December 10, 2007, 02:09:10 AM »

So remember I don't mind questions or comments.   Cheesy

Why didn't you get new pistons?

I didn't need them.  Huh  Honestly, I almost did get new forged pistons but then I asked myself why would I get new pistons.  The originals were in perfect shape and entirely caplable of handling anything that I will be throwing at them so why not use the money for something that would be beneficial.   

Thank you guys for the comments and questions.  Keep them comming.  It's good to know I am not wasting my time.
Did you measure the piston's current OD? And why do I see a plastic chain guide on the passenger side!!!!!
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ROKNROLLR
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« Reply #11 on: December 10, 2007, 02:36:37 AM »

Good eyes Tim, Personally with a total tear down I would've have replaced the pistons and rods.  Yes it all adds up and were not made of $$. But better done now than haveing to kick yourself for have not done so to begin with.
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dlm
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« Reply #12 on: December 10, 2007, 05:47:59 AM »

So remember I don't mind questions or comments.   Cheesy

Why didn't you get new pistons?

I didn't need them.  Huh  Honestly, I almost did get new forged pistons but then I asked myself why would I get new pistons.  The originals were in perfect shape and entirely caplable of handling anything that I will be throwing at them so why not use the money for something that would be beneficial.  

Thank you guys for the comments and questions.  Keep them comming.  It's good to know I am not wasting my time.
Did you measure the piston's current OD? And why do I see a plastic chain guide on the passenger side!!!!!
Of course tim, I even bought a brand new tape measure. Wink  My original passenger side chain guide lasted 185000 miles so again I didn't see the need for anything more.  Seriously on the piston issue, I have built a "few" engines in my day and have never had a custumer come back and say "man everything was running great on a mild tune when suddenly my stock piston melted".  I have seen several sets of pistons melted because the guy spent the money on unnessary things rather then a proper engine management system and tune.  Unfortunatly the $600 pistons only make it about a second or so longer than stock ones under detonation.  This engine was never intended to be a race engine so I felt the money could be better spent elsewhere.  I have been daily driving the truck for four months now and haven't had to kick myself yet but only time will tell.

But moving along.  If you have been to my website you have seen that we are primarily supra guys.  I had heard about the CT26 upgrade and figured I would give it a try. 

I was able to transfer the coolant and oil pipes over to the CT26 from the CT20.  I had to bend one water line slighty to clear the wastegate actuator rod, and reclock the center section.  I disassembled the turbo to clean it and mocked it so that the oil drain pipe was vertical when installed on the engine.  Once I got that marked I used the locating pins on the housings to calculate the angle that the center had been reclocked relative to the exhaust housing and made the intake housing match so basically all that moved was the center section.  Here is the modded CT26 next to the big bad CT20.

« Last Edit: December 10, 2007, 10:00:09 PM by dlm » Logged

with love, Dave
IslandPSI
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« Reply #13 on: December 10, 2007, 06:40:13 AM »

Nice runner, nice motor man. I'd reuse the pistons too, if they were fine. I use the hypereclectic pistons that many say not to use for boosted.. but they seem to work out fine for me so-far,  try to keep it real and know the limits.. and 22R motor/parts are not too hard to find or uber-expensive. As a suggestion, maybe you can slap in a set of ARP rod bolts since you got the pan off.

 So the old turbo head was cracked between the valves? I wonder if that was due to thinness of the casting or from the overheating/blown gasket? or maybe both? Huh
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dlm
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« Reply #14 on: December 10, 2007, 06:54:39 AM »

Here are the turbos from the exhaust side.

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with love, Dave
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