October 23, 2018, 08:20:06 PM *
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Hi all - Welcome back for the second time this month!

I apologize for the inconvenience of the site being offline. The site was down for technical reasons, but it didn't help that I was of offline for two weeks (camping and travel). Once I got back, it took a while to get things sorted out. That's resolved, and the site is now back up. Huzzah!

Please take a minute and read the Site News thread I've posted in the General section, and feel free to comment. Thanks!


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 on: October 21, 2018, 08:49:51 PM 
Started by psychohamster - Last post by psychohamster
When someone tells you "It's got a new engine, everything is new". Well, that usually means a long block and not all the sensors, switches, fuel system and all those "little other bits" that could cost a buttload of cash to buy new above what you just forked out for that nice clean block, head and valve cover. So just because the mechanical stuff is fresh it doesn't mean something that was swapped onto the new from the old is going to function like new and continue an issue you had from before.
That being my situation I am wanting to test all the old components. First I'd like the grab the Ohmmeter and see if everything is within specs. A fairly daunting task when you think about it, digging through all that spaghetti of wires, hoses, intake system and so on and then if you can even get the connectors off or the piece out when you can barely touch it with a long screwdriver doesn't make you want to rush right out and dig in with a big smile.  Plus some are tested when cold and then hot forcing some people (especially on YouTube) to build some wild mouse trap type of contraption to get the conditions for a reliable test. 
So I am figuring that if most electrical testing usually involves jumping the correct component connectors and measuring the readings why can't this be done at the wiring harness connectors? Has anyone ever measured injector resistance by pulling the connector off the ECU and getting a reading from there or somewhere similar? I could be missing something but I figure the wires coming off the components go somewhere and once you pull the piece out you need to put wires back on it to test it so why pull it out in the first place. Secondly, if this is possible then you should be able to test all 4 injectors from the same connector instead of trying to get access to every one of them individually. You could also pull the connector apart, do a cold test, plug it back in, warm it up and do it at temp. So what would require probably a full day to do it could be reduced to a fraction of that time. I've searched the repair manuals and all they ones I've seen show the procedure for testing different components when they appear to be removed. I'm thinking it might also be possible to get another male and female connector setup with all the correct wiring off an old harness and making a setup to plug between the existing to be able to test stuff while the vehicle is running without compromising the permanent system.

So, am I insane, crazy or just plain stupid or has someone done anything like this already? There has to be someone or maybe everyone but me that has thought of this. 
Good or bad, please let me know. Sometimes the best solutions don't come from being motivated but from being lazy.

 on: October 21, 2018, 07:47:02 PM 
Started by psychohamster - Last post by psychohamster
Actually my engine does run very good. I have a habit of listening to an idling engine exhaust note and smoothness. When started cold, like sitting overnight, at idle the exhaust is smooth with a steady exhaust pulse but once up to operating temp it gets a random "pop". It isn't a steady 1 - 2 - 3 - POP, but random like every 6th then 10th then 7th pulse,but not when it's cold. I've searched online for answers and it appears this is something all vehicle makes and models experience, even non turbo diesels. Many claim this is normal and others really like it but I can't imagine someone walking onto a dealers lot and hear that on a new car and find it acceptable let alone the factory just ignoring it. I figure it must be a fuel issue rather than an ignition related cause. If it was ignition wouldn't it happen all the time and at a steady pace? Thinking it is fuel leads me to focus on a an injector or maybe the cold start injector.
Anyone know, think they know or even a good guess? Thanks.

 on: October 21, 2018, 07:24:00 PM 
Started by psychohamster - Last post by psychohamster
I've been puling my plugs and inspecting them about every week and they aren't oily anymore, they are sooty. So what I thought was an oil issue turns out to fuel related. I got an 02 sensor CEL dash light warning twice {5 blips), so I replaced the sensor with a new Denso unit. I just did it yesterday so it's to early to tell if there isn't another issue causing the condition. Initially it did feel like it had a much smoother power band when I drove it but I still want to test other fuel related components to verify the problem is fixed instead of going through a cycle of putting a bandaid on a bullet hole by just swapping out the weakest link in the chain. I believe something like a leaky fuel injector could cause a rich condition that could lead to it affecting the 02 Sensor.

 on: October 21, 2018, 07:19:33 AM 
Started by spideynut - Last post by spideynut
I have some pics of the decals they went on pretty smooth.
Turned on the flash to confirm the reflector decal:)

 on: September 23, 2018, 06:44:51 PM 
Started by mica - Last post by mica
Post on Yotatech has pictures.

 on: September 23, 2018, 06:43:16 PM 
Started by mica - Last post by mica
Putting my project truck up for sale. This is a nice truck, hope it will find a good home.
Clean 1986 factory turbo Toyota pickup
Fresh rebuilt motor, reputable local machine shop built long-block. Documentation available
Steed Speed top-mount IWG exhaust manifold
Fresh rebuilt G-Pop Shop Garret T-3 turbo (.60/.63 iirc)
2.5" exhaust all the way

Auto Trans
Basically a stock truck other than the turbo swap
Currently non-op registration, no fees
clean title

Needs: headlights, front brake calipers, radiator, alternator perhaps some other little odds and ends I can't remember now. No headliner

Do not need to sell, and I am not in any hurry. Price is fairly firm, lots of investment into this truck. I would be willing to negotiate more with out-of-state buyers.

 on: September 22, 2018, 10:19:19 AM 
Started by spideynut - Last post by spideynut
Well went to the shop to start the truck for the first time in a year and a half. After some fooling around figured out the elbow connected to the turbo intake side is cracked. Worst part is I did it spraying to much starting fluid it back fired and cracked the elbow plus blew off the intake! The elbow was shot anyway. So anyone know where to get one? after market or what ever.

 on: September 06, 2018, 08:17:59 AM 
Started by spideynut - Last post by spideynut
Looks great! You are right about no one wanted to tough your truck without cost some big $$$ plus your 1st born male child. I completely disassembled my truck and sot it myself, but it helps to have your own spray booth. The results are night and day different. Good luck with the details!

Yes its getting up there in $$. I really wanted to do this to an 85 extra cab but never could find the right one. I did find a guy today on epay making vac diagrams for under the hood and some glove box stickers but I dont know I used to always peel those off when I was younger. lol..

 on: September 04, 2018, 05:28:30 AM 
Started by psychohamster - Last post by ReelDeal
Yes, kinda like changing out a cam the same way,  but I never wanted to try it. Better chances with a MLS gasket

 on: September 04, 2018, 05:22:55 AM 
Started by spideynut - Last post by ReelDeal
Looks great! You are right about no one wanted to tough your truck without cost some big $$$ plus your 1st born male child. I completely disassembled my truck and sot it myself, but it helps to have your own spray booth. The results are night and day different. Good luck with the details!

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