22RTE-Trucks
August 20, 2017, 09:42:45 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News:

Hi all - Welcome back for the second time this month!

I apologize for the inconvenience of the site being offline. The site was down for technical reasons, but it didn't help that I was of offline for two weeks (camping and travel). Once I got back, it took a while to get things sorted out. That's resolved, and the site is now back up. Huzzah!

Please take a minute and read the Site News thread I've posted in the General section, and feel free to comment. Thanks!

mosk
Admin



 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
 1 
 on: August 19, 2017, 09:52:51 PM 
Started by Balzonya - Last post by Balzonya
I will switch that and give it a try. I am getting fuel though cause it smells like gas.
Ok after yesterday here's an update.

Pulled a plug and found it soaked with gas so I'm testing the coils. Put the plug in the wire and let it hang and turned the motor over it did the spark on power up like it does but wouldn't spark when cranking. On the pigtail I'm getting 12v to the power and 5v to the signal but only 9v power when cranking. That a normal voltage drop?
But after messing around with it and testing now nothing is sparking at all. I need to get a spark tester tomorrow

 2 
 on: August 19, 2017, 03:06:58 AM 
Started by Balzonya - Last post by Ronmar
Ok, just looked at a wiring diagram.  At the AFM connector you should be connecting Green to White with black stripe.  Green goes to the fuel pump control relay and White/Black goes to ground.  This allows curent to flow thru the relay to ground energzing it which in turn energizes the pump...  Blue with red runs back to the factory ECU so I don't see that providing a path to ground to energize the relay...

 3 
 on: August 19, 2017, 02:56:27 AM 
Started by Balzonya - Last post by Ronmar
Havn't setup a wheel in MS, but you shouldn't have to physically move it, you can adjust for it's position using that tooth angle setting.  This is where the timing light comes in to confirm that it is actually delivering spark where it says it is according to the spark advance lookup table/map. 

When the tooth on the weel starts to  pass the sensor, the pickup coil in the sensor generates a positive going signal and as the tooth passes beyond/leaves the sensor the signal shifts negative.  Which mode you use really dosn't matter, but it will cause a shift in the overall timing by the width of the tooth in degrees so you have to adjust accordingly.

The wires you jumpered for the FP were at the AFM connection?  I will have to look at my wiring diagrams to confirm your colors.   

 4 
 on: August 19, 2017, 12:30:04 AM 
Started by Balzonya - Last post by Balzonya
Here some answers for you...
I don't have a compression tester. So I'm not sure.
I don't have a fuel pressure tester so I don't know. The green wire is connected to the blue/red wire. Please advise on this cause I Wasnt sure if this was right or not. We have fuel at least to the dampener cause I had to fix the leak.
It's just me out here so haven't cranked with the timing light on yet or listened to the injectors. But it smells like fuel sometimes.

Timing question: the VR sensor was a big reason why the RPMs were so wacky. So fixed the VR location and moved it much closer and it helped even the RPMs out but still does jump around (not as much) and only up to 300 RPMs. Still no start.
Is my trigger wheel set up right? Tooth #1 after the gap hits the sensor right when the motor is TDC. So my tooth angle is set to 0.0degrees BTDC.
Should I try moving tooth #1 to an actual degree?
What should my magnetic VR sensor "ignition input capture" Be set to? Rising or falling?

 5 
 on: August 13, 2017, 05:14:13 PM 
Started by bronz truck - Last post by ReelDeal
Bronz, relatively good news. Everything can be fixed. I still think it is a mistake to go with the MLS HG though.

Good luck and keep us posted.

T

 6 
 on: August 12, 2017, 04:47:21 PM 
Started by Balzonya - Last post by Ronmar
I find it best when things go wrong to start with the basics.

1. Do you have adequate engine compression when cranking?
2. Do you have fuel pressure(40+ PSI) when cranking.  The AFM controls the fuel pump, and you said you deleted it, so how you turning on the FP?
3. Is it generating a spark at the proper time? An inductive pickup timing light is great here as you can check that #1 is firing around 5-10 DBTDC when cranking and that 2-4 are firing at all.
4. Are the injectors trying to fire?  You should be able to hear them click with a mechanics stethescope while cranking.

Some theories why some or all of these might be out of wack:

1. Compression issues could be valve timing or misadjustment.
2. No fuel, bad electric fuel pump, regulator or not controlling it properly.
3. Spark could be a couple of things.  The ECU needs an event trigger, It is the heartbeat.  Then it needs to be programmed to understand when that trigger is occuring in relation to a complete engine cycle.  Once it does this it can generate a spark, but it must be programmed to generate it at the proper time(in the proper device/coil pack) in relation to the cycle. If it is making a spark, here is where a timing light can help you get your brain around where it is actually producing a spark vis where it needs to be producing a spark...   
4. Injector firing: Same as spark programming issues in 3, but there may also be some safeties involved.  If that 300 RPM crank is accurate that could be an issue as it should be nearly twice that.  It may not be reaching sufficient RPM to enable spark or injectors(crank and run detect threshold).  If that RPM is not accurate, well that could be the issue right there as it would indicate that the "heartbeat" is not being counted accurately causing all kinds of issues...       

 7 
 on: August 12, 2017, 12:28:31 AM 
Started by Balzonya - Last post by Balzonya
So my trigger wheel is set so tooth #1 (first tooth after the gap) is right at the VR sensor when the motor is TDC. So should my "Tooth #1 Angle(deg BTDC)" value be at 0.0?
What about cranking dwell and norminal dwell be at? MS manual said lower so it's at 2.0 now but was at 3.5. I've been trying lots of different, last ditch efforts.
What's about the injector dead-time/PWM settings? .7 and .2 for low z injectors is all I read.

 8 
 on: August 12, 2017, 12:20:45 AM 
Started by Balzonya - Last post by Balzonya
Glad to see the sites back. Sense moving to the megasquirt 2 v3.0 kit I've had nothing but troubles. I'm gonna make a long story short and  skip how we got here and just say what's been done and what on the truck right now. Cause we're not changing so please don't judge, just help. There will be time for ridiculing me once she's running. Deal?
Issue: no start. Cranks great and sounds "good". Like it should be firing up.

Here's the "upgrades" I've done..
 Engnbldr cam, OS valves/springs
top mount mani/new turbo
440cc Supra injectors/new pigtails
LS1 "logic coils" (4 of them) pigtails combined into 2 megasquirt outputs
Wideband o2
Pretty much deleted everything I could. Including the dizzy, AFM and all emissions stuff
32-1 trigger wheel and VR sensor
Timing chain/waterpump/head planned and polished

Now let's pretend I did all the physical engine work, wiring and MS2 board correctly for the moment. Cause I believe it's in the tunerstudio settings right now.
Can someone with tunerstudio experience take a look at my MSQ file? (I'll attach it when I get to my computer.)

So when I'm cranking she does pop/bang/misfire and try to start sometimes but haven't been able to get her to fire up

My RPM readout is only saying like 300rpm when cranking and it's spotty. I don't even know where to start asking questions so if you have some settings that should be changed just start throwing ideas out.

To be honest I'm so tired of messing with this megasquirt unit. Physically stressed over this no starting so please be constructive cause I'm no longer in my playful happy go lucky mindset. (Why I won't go back to the msextra forum page) you guys are my last hope before I sell it off. (That's not a joke. I'm really that frustrated)

If anyone has a similar build or can set up the tunerstudio settings/fuel map or Would rather just email/Facebook messager, contact  me at als85olds@gmail.com

 9 
 on: August 11, 2017, 06:49:52 PM 
Started by bronz truck - Last post by bronz truck
An update...

The head is off any being worked on.  
The good news:  Its straight.  And still thick.
The bad news:
The valve job done was done poorly, ~25K miles ago.  
--  The guilds are iron.  They weren't done exactly correctly.  The valves were not put in square (straight), and the valves weren't lapped, so the exhaust valves weren't sealing 100%.  Requiring new valve job.
--  Some how the steam ports were made bigger that normal.  This is impinged into the sealing area near the fire ring*.  I will be using a Cometic, this should elevate this problem.
The HG was leaking in several areas slightly, this led to the head being pitting in those areas.  This, requiring minor surfacing.

More to come as its known...

* I'll place the new HG down on top of the head to see how close the steam port really are.

 10 
 on: August 11, 2017, 06:32:47 PM 
Started by mosk - Last post by bronz truck
Jeff,

I appreciate the work you put into this.

THANK YOU!!!

Bruce

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!